Esh Hotel & Spa: Where the Jungle Begins
In Nosara, it does not take long to understand why people come here. The roads are bumpy, the Pacific is warm, and Playa Guiones is one of Costa Rica’s most reliable surfing beaches.
Architecture in the Heart of the Jungle
Much of life here is pleasantly imperfect. Esh Hotel & Spa, just a few minutes from the beach, looks as though someone has briefly decided to set the disorder aside. Twenty-nine rooms, plenty of concrete, dark wood, water and a surprising amount of greenery in between. Esh sits on a hillside in Huacas, surrounded by trees through which a natural stream winds its way. There is no spectacular view. So the architecture firms FAMM Arquitectura and Sulkin Askenazi came up with a different solution: rather than placing the landscape in front of the hotel, they brought it right into its heart. Courtyards, staircases, terraces and shaded pathways lead from one area to the next. The real view is the journey there.
Minimalist Design, Natural Materials
The rooms remain true to this idea. The architecture is minimalist, the materials robust: exposed concrete, wood and glass. These are complemented by custom-made furniture from local craftspeople, artwork by Costa Rican painter Mael Victory and textiles from Latin America. Some bathrooms open up to the outdoors, certain suites have a terrace or private garden, while the villas feature their own pool or an open-air bathtub. There are no televisions. There is Wi-Fi, though, if you really need it.
Between the Pacific, Yoga and Vitalis Spa
The day starts early at Esh. With yoga, a plunge into cold water or a trip to the beach. Playa Guiones and Playa Pelada are both nearby, and Nosara is known for its surf and yoga scene, as well as a way of life that can be summed up rather well by “Pura Vida”, as long as you do not print it on a T-shirt. At Vitalis Spa, the offerings include a sauna, ice baths, yoga, Pilates and sound baths. Dining takes place at Almar, where fish from local fishermen and produce from the surrounding area come together in a cuisine that moves between the Pacific and Mexico. Breakfast is served until 10:30 a.m., followed by lunch and dinner. Drinks are the responsibility of Ember & Ash Bar, whose name already hints at its source of inspiration.
A Ritual with Fire
Esh means fire in Hebrew. In the open lobby area, there is a fire pit where guests can write a personal intention on a piece of paper upon arrival and offer it to the flames. You should do it. And by the time the jungle outside begins to darken and a cicada starts its work somewhere nearby, you are rather glad someone came up with the idea of the fire.
Pura Vida and a Conscious Approach to Nature
Nosara is part of one of the five so-called Blue Zones, where longevity is associated with nutrition, movement and social life. Esh takes this subject seriously without turning it into a health camp. Among other initiatives, the hotel works with Costas Verdes to reforest the coastal region and the jungle; guests can also take part in planting a tree themselves.
You come here for the Pacific, stay for the jungle and eventually realise that the greatest luxury in Nosara is not the suite with its own pool. It is a day when you have no reason to look at the clock.
