Badhaus Brixen & Arthotel Lasserhaus – Chestnuts, Art and a Few Centuries
One bathhouse with a history dating back to 1374. One centuries-old building whose wine cellar is now home to contemporary art. And a South Tyrolean tradition that makes autumn in Brixen a particularly special time of year. Badhaus Brixen and Arthotel Lasserhaus tell two very different stories about the same city.
When the Fifth Season Begins
In autumn, the vineyards and chestnut trees surrounding Brixen gradually turn shades of gold, orange and red. At the same time, Törggelen begins, a South Tyrolean tradition often referred to as the region’s fifth season. Its origins go back to the days following the grape harvest, when farmers and winemakers would gather to taste the new wine and celebrate the season’s work. Today, traditional farmhouse taverns known as Buschenschänken serve barley soup, Schlutzkrapfen, dumplings and roasted chestnuts, accompanied, of course, by local wine. The Keschtnweg, South Tyrol’s Chestnut Trail, also winds through the countryside around Brixen. Between vineyards and chestnut groves, there are plenty of opportunities for a leisurely walk before stopping at one of the traditional farmhouses. Back in the city, two hotels await with stories that are just as intriguing.
The Long History of a Bathhouse
As early as 1374, a bathhouse stood on the site where Badhaus Brixen is located today. Until 1940, bathing here was part of everyday life in the city. Today, a newly built, contemporary hotel with guest rooms and a restaurant stands on this historic ground. The centuries-old story of the site lives on, even though the building itself belongs entirely to the present. And for those craving a little warmth and water after a day exploring Brixen, the Acquarena is just a few metres away, offering a spacious sauna and bathing area.
One of the hotel’s most surprising discoveries, however, is waiting just above our heads. Michael Fliri’s installation Liquid Starry Sky consists of hundreds of interconnected ceramic tiles featuring hands, covering the ceiling of the passageway. Light reflects off their dark, glazed surfaces, creating the impression of a shifting starry sky. At first glance, you might not even realise that the shapes are hands. And as we take another look, the Badhaus reminds us of something that brought people to this very place centuries ago: the simple pleasure of coming together.
Art from the Cellar to the Ceiling
Arthotel Lasserhaus is located in Stufels, one of Brixen’s oldest neighbourhoods. The building dates back to the early 15th century and today houses ten guest rooms alongside a collection of more than one hundred historical works of art. These are complemented by works from six contemporary artists, waiting to be discovered throughout the house.
In one of the artist rooms, Ingrid Hora’s wall bars stretch upwards behind the bed, their turquoise rungs reaching towards the vaulted ceiling. Above another bed, in the second artist room, Esther Stocker’s black-and-white geometric forms create an entirely different visual world. Peter Kogler has even transformed the old wine cellar into an art space with his distinctive patterns.
Within just a few steps, Lasserhaus takes us through several centuries of art history. Between historical works and unexpected installations, there is always something new to discover. Sometimes, all it takes is a glance above your own bed.
Among the Chestnut Trees
Autumn around Brixen is also a wonderful time for hiking. Alongside the higher-altitude trails on the Plose mountain, there are plenty of gentler routes winding through the surrounding vineyards and chestnut groves. After a leisurely lunch at a traditional Buschenschank, the path leads back into the historic old town, past the cathedral, through narrow streets and eventually to two hotels that reveal very different sides of Brixen. At Badhaus Brixen, the story of a medieval bathhouse continues through contemporary architecture. At Arthotel Lasserhaus, contemporary artworks have found their place among centuries-old walls. And all around them, the end of the grape harvest is still celebrated much as it was generations ago.
A Few Centuries Later
The people who once bathed on this very site could hardly have imagined that hundreds of ceramic tiles featuring hands would one day appear above their heads. Nor was the old wine cellar at Lasserhaus built with the idea that, centuries later, it would become a home for contemporary art.
The places are still here, but their stories have continued to unfold, chapter after chapter. Outside, Törggelen season has arrived. Chestnuts are roasting, and young wine is being poured.
And the stories of Badhaus Brixen and Arthotel Lasserhaus continue. For one weekend, we can become part of them ourselves.
