Quinta Filippa: A House, a Family, 40 Hectares of Portugal
Near Leiria, a family retreat has become a small hotel. Quinta Filippa combines the history of rural Portugal with contemporary architecture, regional cuisine and a wellness concept that places nature and movement at its heart.
From a Family Idea to a 40-Hectare Estate
Quinta Filippa was originally intended as a holiday home for the family. The idea of turning it into a hotel only emerged over time. Mike Schwalbach, whose mother comes from the small village near Leiria, bought the first plot of land in 2017. Gradually, more were added until over 90 individual plots had become one continuous estate of around 40 hectares. Today, restored buildings, woodland, fields and gardens are spread across the grounds. Quinta Filippa has been welcoming guests since September 2026. It takes its name from Filippa, Mike’s eldest daughter.
Portuguese Traditions on the Plate
A piece of village history remains alive to this day: the communal bread oven, where residents once gathered on Sundays to bake bread for the week before heading to church. Today, Head Chef Paolo de Vries uses it to bake fresh bread every day. De Vries is a chef working at a two-Michelin-star level, whose cuisine combines high culinary standards with an approachable concept. The cuisine also draws on Portuguese traditions, seasonal ingredients and local producers. Whenever possible, fruit and vegetables come from the estate itself or the surrounding area. Cooking classes, olive oil tastings and wine tastings offer guests a chance to experience the region’s culinary traditions. A second restaurant is already being planned.
Architecture Between Past and Present
The architecture follows the same philosophy of continued development. Old buildings have been restored, stone has been reused, and former telephone poles have been transformed into ceiling beams, with their original markings still visible. Together with designer Nanouk Souren van Ramshorst of Circle Studio, the hosts designed the interiors using natural materials, handmade ceramics and carefully selected vintage furniture. Large windows open up views of woodland, gardens and ponds. The 16 rooms and suites are understated in their design and have no televisions. Rather than offering as many distractions as possible, the focus is on connecting with the surroundings.
Wellness, Movement and Nature
The expansive grounds feature a 25-metre heated saltwater pool, two saunas with red-light therapy and a steam bath. Massages can be arranged directly in guests’ rooms. An ice bath is planned for the coming summer. Yoga, breathing exercises and guided hikes complement the offering, while Reformer Pilates is expected to become available from the new year. Those who prefer to explore independently can follow paths through woodland and fields or pick fruit directly from the trees.
A Place for Craftsmanship and Regional Culture
Connecting with the region is also part of the concept. The wine cellar places Portuguese producers centre stage, while seasonal gatherings, such as roasting chestnuts, draw on local traditions. An artist-in-residence programme brings artists from Portugal and other countries to the estate, where they work with materials from the surrounding area and develop new pieces. In this way, Quinta Filippa continues to grow over time – not only as a hotel, but also as a place where craftsmanship, design and regional culture come together.
Personalised Stays and Shared Experiences
Mike Schwalbach and his wife Nikki Mol remain closely involved in running the hotel. Before arrival, guests are asked about their interests and habits so that a personalised programme of movement, relaxation, dining and time outdoors can be put together.
Alongside individual stays, retreats and exclusive bookings of the entire estate are also possible. While the hotel normally welcomes guests aged 16 and over, Quinta Filippa is also suitable for families with children when booked exclusively. The pool includes a shallow section around 30 centimetres deep for younger guests. Quinta Filippa offers a wide variety of individually tailored stays – from yoga, meditation and massages to active excursions and restful days spent enjoying the peace and beauty of the estate. The old bread oven tells the story behind Quinta Filippa better than anything else. Once used to provide bread for the village, it is now part of a hotel that aims to introduce its guests to the traditions of the region.
A family story has become a hotel, scattered plots of land have become one continuous estate. And an oven that once supplied the village is once again producing fresh bread every day.
Photos: Fransisco Nogueria, Valentine Dreyfus
